

Sicily
Season 1 Episode 101 | 26m 57sVideo has Closed Captions
The art of puppetry; palace tours; making Marsala wine; a historic parade; and more.
Alessandra travels to Sicily to learn about the modern royalty and craftsmen that represent the historic charm of the region. Visit the workshop of a puppet maker, a cart painter, and a coral carver; get exclusive access to palaces; explore culinary gems that include salt pans, granita, a fish market, and Marsala wine; discover Europe’s oldest archeological site; see a spectacular historic parade.
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Passion Italy is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Sicily
Season 1 Episode 101 | 26m 57sVideo has Closed Captions
Alessandra travels to Sicily to learn about the modern royalty and craftsmen that represent the historic charm of the region. Visit the workshop of a puppet maker, a cart painter, and a coral carver; get exclusive access to palaces; explore culinary gems that include salt pans, granita, a fish market, and Marsala wine; discover Europe’s oldest archeological site; see a spectacular historic parade.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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- [Announcer] In the heart of Barolo lies Cantina Oddero Winery.
Today the 6th generation of the Oddero's continue the family tradition of producing wines from ancient vines in (speaking in foreign language).
Oddero wines, since 1878.
- [Announcer] Victor Rallo and Chef Dave Pasternack's Esca restaurant in New York City's theater district.
Serving contemporary Italian coastal cuisine, crudo, fresh fish, prime meats and pasta.
Dishes rooted in the simplicity of Italian flavors.
Esca, New York City.
(gentle music) - [Narrator] Alessandra Poli has spent her life traveling the world and sharing stories of her adventures as a TV producer.
Now, she'll explore her homeland and offer a look at the Italy tourists don't see.
- Around the city where I was born, never stops to amaze me.
Art, culture, history, but most of all, it's very passionate people.
Follow me on Passion Italy and I show you the real Italy.
- [Narrator] The real Italy, it's a love for stunning landscapes, the creativity to transform coral into art, the soul to give voice to old folk traditions, the magic of partaking in a spectacular costume parade, the nostalgia of modern aristocracy, and tasting some of the best wines in the region.
- On today's Passion Italy, we will explore one of southern Italy's treasures: the gorgeous island of Sicily.
(gentle music) (tires screech) - [Narrator] Today we will travel to Sicily.
Our journey will start in Palermo.
We will visit Bagheria and then continue along the coast, stopping in Trapani and Marsala.
Our final destination?
Castelvetrano.
For those who savor slow travel and prefer an out-of-the-way destination for their vacation, western Sicily is an ideal place.
Nature seems to have endowed all its wonders in this wind-swept coast, which has attracted invaders for millennia.
They all left their mark on the island's culture, architecture and cuisine.
The Austrian therapist and philosopher Sigmund Freud, struck by Sicily's magnificence, described it as the most beautiful Italian region.
(drum beats) (gentle music) Palermo is a cryptic and vibrant city, heart of the ancient world.
You'll be captured by it's heady mix of Byzantine mosaics, arabesque domes, alongside rundown streets, animated by local banter.
- Please come on in into Palazzo Conte Frederico, arrivo!
(singing in Italian) My husband's family goes back to the emperor Frederick II who was the Holy Roman Emperor 800 years ago.
This is why we are called the Fredericos.
- [Narrator] Visiting one of Palermo's aristocratic palaces from the 12th century is an unforgettable experience.
It was built in the Punic Roman city walls of which the tower is one of the few remaining parts.
- This is the only tower in Arab Norman style that still exists in the whole city of Palermo.
So this is actually very ancient building.
But you know this is the home we live in.
- [Narrator] Palermo's cathedral is one of the city's highlights.
Much of the current cathedral was built in lavish Arab Norman style in 12th century.
The city center can be safely toured on foot.
The best place to start is one of its bustling street markets such as Ballaro.
(yells in Italian) (upbeat Italian music) So many uncommon vegetables.
Alessandra loves markets and buys as much as she can carry.
Encouraged by the locals with friendly cooking advice.
(speaks in Italian) Walking back from the market, don't miss the stunning Piazza Pretoria, also known as the square of shame, due to the naked statues around the spectacular fountain at its center.
They were believed to represent the corrupt officials in their city hall, but in reality, they were mythological figures.
If you're tired of walking, take a rest in one of the local bars or taste some of the excellent and cheap street food, watching locals stroll the Via Maqueda, one of the main shopping strips.
In the center of Palermo, the Palazzo Branchi Forte, built in the 1500's is a unique place.
One of the most impressive areas is the wooden structure of Monte di Santa Rosalia.
On entering, you will find yourself in a labyrinth of alternating light and shade.
Today, instead of people's valuables, it hosts the permanent exhibition of Giacomo Cuticchio puppets.
The puppet opera trace back to the 1800's and is one of the most renowned Sicilian traditions.
Mimmo Cuticchio follows in his father's footsteps, giving life to those spectacular puppets.
- [Mimmo] (speaks in Italian) (upbeat music) - (speaks in Italian) - (speaks in Italian) (sweeping music) - [Narrator] Bagheria, 15 miles from Palermo, famous for its wonderful historic villas and its 18th century buildings is a perfect destination for a day trip.
As you walk along the path that leads to the magnificent Villa Valguarnera, you breathe the history that permeates this place.
The princess Vittoria Alliata of Villa Franca is the owner of this 18th century work of art, a real fairytale settings.
She tells Alessandra one of the stories that have made Valguarnera so important to Italian culture.
- This house was built by my ancestors at the very beginning of the 18th century.
The idea was to create Arcadia, a place where scientists and mathematicians, experts in botanics could meet and they could create a better world.
Since this was a place of free thought, I try to transfer this feeling to those who come in here.
They can come stay in the rooms that were inhabited by these wonderful people and they can feel what the 18th century was.
One of the lathers, scientists in the family, was my grandfather's brother Enrico who used the title of Duke of Salaparuta who invented something very special which he called gastrosophy, which was the philosophy of proper eating.
Eating properly meant for him becoming a vegetarian, which was of course very very avant-garde in those days.
In 1910, he comes up with his Manuale di Gastrosofianaturista with his recipe book.
Over 1,000 recipes.
Some of them are very difficult.
Some of them are fantastic and simple.
He's very strong on raw food, which of course in those days was completely out of question.
He uses ingredients that somehow make you feel that you're still eating meat.
So he takes you slowly towards this gastrosophy until in the end, you become almost vegan.
It's the end.
He's transforming people's souls through the food.
By eating properly, his whole attitude to the environment changes.
He would be philosophically transformed.
Since you become what you eat, this is the great difference with our books of recipes and this is the reason why we use them a lot.
We grow our own organic, biodynamic vegetables.
We have our sheep.
We also make (mumbles) touches.
We try to make people feel when they come here and have a lunch party what it means and another relationship between man and nature.
Eating what you see in the garden and it's not only organic, but it's also balanced according to your nature and to what is good for you.
So it teaches you how to start a different kind of life.
- [Narrator] Bagheria is the temple of Sicilian carved paintings, symbol of Sicilian folklore originating around the 18th century.
Alessandra meets Michele Ducato who is a cart painter as per family tradition in Villa Cattolica.
The museum, dedicated to Renato Guttuso, a renowned painter from Bagheria hosts a cart collection by Michele's grandfather.
The Ducato family is among the most important schools in the art of decorating Sicilian carts.
In their workshops, some of the most beautiful cars have been made.
- (speaks in Italian) - [Narrator] The hillside town of Monreale overlooks Palermo and the Terranean Sea.
In the Diocesan Museum, among the great collection of religious art, one of Platimiro Fiorenza's precious works is also preserved.
Platimiro is a UNESCO entity because of his knowledge and expertise in carving coral.
He is using ancient techniques dating back to the 1600's which now have almost disappeared.
Platimiro lives and works in Trapani, a town which traditionally thrived on coral.
In the 14th century, it became the heart of a powerful coral trading network.
- (speaks in Italian) - [Narrator] Trapani's gracious historic center with its compelling maze of ancient churches and palaces is an engaging place to stroll and enjoy one of the local specialties: the Sicilian granita, made with ice and fresh fruit or nuts.
Pasticceria Colicchia since 1885 makes one of the best in town.
From late afternoon, the traffic-free main street, Via Garibaldi, buzzes with what appears to be the entire population out enjoying their lazy, essential passigatta.
Join them.
Driving along the coast between Trapani and Marsala, you will be stunned by the picturesque landscape of the salt pans.
The salt from these marshes is considered Italy's finest and has been big business for centuries.
In summer, the sun turns the salt pans rosy pink and makes the salt heaps shimmer.
Decommissioned windmills stand out in the water, creating images of absolute beauty.
The Infresa Salt Mill harnesses the force of the wind to grind the salt.
The mill is the only one in the world still functional and visitable.
It's a real masterpiece of industrial archeology from the 1500's.
(upbeat music) Many know about its sweet dessert wines, but few people realize how charming the town of Marsala is.
The gateway through which Garibaldi led him men in 1860 before Italy's unification takes you to the small, but delightful historic center.
Visiting the old fish market a few steps away from the duomo is a stimulating experience.
Fresh tuna caught in the area and a range of amazing seafood are just some of the goods available.
Friendly locals love to chat with foreigners.
They have so many tales to tell.
Alessandra, distracted by the market vibrancy, almost forgot the reason why she came to Marsala: it's famous fortified wine, which is named after the city.
Her choice is Marco di Bartoli winery, set in a picturesque barrio, a traditional Sicilian wine estate.
Marco had two passions: old car racing and wine making.
As a driver, he won several international competitions.
As a wine maker, he was an innovator while respecting Sicilian wine traditions.
Marco's kids inherited the passion and the pride to continue his ambitious and successful venture.
- (speaks in Italian) - [Narrator] On the southwest coast of Sicily lies the largest archeological site in Europe: Selinunte.
The ruins rank among the most impressive archeological sites in Sicily.
Selinos, as it was known to the Greeks, was one of the richest and most powerful cities in the world.
(upbeat music) The city of Castelvetrano is out of the main tourist stream, but it deserves a detour, even just to enter the Saint Domenico's church, known as the Sistine of Sicily.
The stuccos and lush decorations in mannerism style will certainly astonish you.
If you plan to travel in May, don't miss one of Sicily's most spectacular historical parades, dedicated to Saint Rita's life and re-enacted by impassioned citizens dressed in sumptuous costumes from the 1500's.
(drums beat) - It's time to leave.
I'll miss Sicilians, the great food and wine, the beauty, but I'll be back on Passion Italy to show you another corner of Italy.
(upbeat music) (upbeat music) - [Narrator] Everybody knows the typical Italian tourist sites and, yes, they're wonderful.
But the Italy that a seasoned visitor wants to enjoy is one where the people and their passion inspire life-long memories.
Yes, it's a different way to visit a country, but this is the real Italy, so why not?
- [Announcer] Funding for this series has been provided by the following.
- [Announcer] In the heart of Barolo lies Cantina Oddero Winery.
Today the 6th generation of the Oddero's continue the family tradition of producing wines from ancient vines in (speaking in foreign language).
Oddero wines, since 1878.
- [Announcer] Victor Rallo and Chef Dave Pasternack's Esca restaurant in New York City's theater district.
Serving contemporary Italian coastal cuisine, crudo, fresh fish, prime meats and pasta.
Dishes rooted in the simplicity of Italian flavors.
Esca, New York City.
(grand music)
Support for PBS provided by:
Passion Italy is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television